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Magazine » November 2009 » Columns » SIGNS

Brücken culture-gap



Last month I left the United States for Germany. Landing in Berlin I hopped the subway known as the U-Bahn and explored the previously divided capital. Resisting the urge to indulge in the ongoing Oktoberfest in the South, I headed north. Traveling at high speeds to Hamburg, the quick trip of “steel wheels on steel rails” covered 300 kilometers in 90 minutes. We on the train enjoyed a smooth, hands-free ride while out performing 500-horse-power Porsches driven along the nearby Autobahn.

I spent a week in the historic port city, photographing and studying its roads, bridges, and waterways. Today, I am back at home in a state of culture shock and awe. I should have seen it coming.

Prior to leaving the states, I asked my friend Mimi Hall, whose German heritage is heavy, what I should see while in her home country. “Look at the undersides of the bridges — they’re beautiful,” the globetrotter said before driving her point home, “They’re not like they are [in America]: dirty, rusty and falling down on you. There is a dignity to these bridges.” Mimi knows little about engineering but gushed about her motherland’s bridgework.

True to Mimi’s words, the undersides of the bridges — a.k.a. “brücken” — I examined were impressive; even beautiful. They were freshly painted and free of corrosion. They were often outfitted with nets to keep pigeons and their droppings from corroding and weighing down supporting structures (guano weighs about 20 pounds per cubic foot). Transit trains sliced through densely populated neighborhoods with a blurry swoosh, not a shaking and rattling like so many of our antique transit systems. Transportation centers of all modes were clean and buzzing with riders as well as shoppers (they act as community shopping centers and transit depots). However, the entire infrastructure was not freely accessible: tolls on public toilets were about a buck a pass.

On one of my last nights, I sat next to a table of young German professionals performing a bit of company bonding over dinner and “bier.” The group of architects and engineers invited me to join them. I dragged my bowl of soup and 0.3 liter of beer (precise people these Germans) and did as they suggested. Marc Springer, the ringleader, was a full-time professional and part-time professor of urban design. Marc is a fan of Americans, but he worries for us.

Dan McNichol
One of McNichol’s hamburg views

His English was as excellent as his travel tales long. Marc said he was in New Orleans before the levees failed. Avoiding that disaster, he moved on to a story of traveling to one of his favorite cities: “I love Chicago, but there is such a contrast between its world-class skyscrapers and that old train on elevated tracks — what do you call it?” I answered, “The El.” He laughed, “Yes, that piece of history! I couldn’t believe how long it took to get from the airport to the city. I mean it was considerable.” He continued, getting stimulated by the depth to which our infrastructure has sunk. “At first I did not know why everyone was wearing headphones,” saying he thought they were suffering a physical disorder of some sort. “Then, I realized, they were listening to loud music — trying to drown out the noise of the train on the old tracks!” Sadly, he was serious. “And, what about those telegraph wires hanging from, what do you call them, those wooden masts?” Telephone polls, I admitted.

I nearly wept. Instead I ordered two more 0.3 liter beers, one for me and one for Marc. The difference in our infrastructural behavior is stark. In short: German’s have high expectations. They demand good service from their governmental transportation agencies. Like in the United States, infrastructure in Germany is still seen very much a government matter. What’s different is that the German people understand the need to protect their investments with preventive maintenance. Too often our standards are driven down by deterioration triggered by deferred maintenance.

“Germany did not have the choice but to rebuild almost all its infrastructure after having it destroyed in WWII,” said Marc, adding cold comfort. The reverse point he was making is that America does have a choice whether or not it rebuilds. And, that it is to our disadvantage that we do not have to. But, I know I can speak for Marc when I say we must rebuild.

Dan McNichol is a highly acclaimed author, journalist, and speaker. He welcomes your comments at dan@danmcnichol.com.

Article Comments
  • T. Bunker wrote on December 13, 2009, 12:08:

    Always remember that the German transit infrastructure...indeed that of much of Europe was totally-rebuilt due to an unfortunate spat of infastructure demolition called WW2. Nearly every bridge, rail-line, canal-lock and highway has been constructed or re-constructed since the 1950's...whereas our infrastructure dates back to the early 20th and late 19th-centuries.
  • Jin Ji wrote on November 30, 2009, 16:32:

    This article is beautifully written. To a point it's almost poetic. I was in Germany during the same time when you were there. Your article expressed the similar feelings I had about America's infrastructure. What Germany has - the beautifully maintained bridges, well-run railroad system, and highways - is what makes a country strong and competitive. America has been the world leader in many fronts, including its Interstate Highway System that was launched in 1956. However, 50+ years later, when Germany is proud of its well-maintained infrastructure, when China, the new power, is hurrying building up with its own new system including magnetic levitation railroads, America needs to look back and re-analyze its state. It's not detrimental for a nation realizing its lagging behind and recouping. It is dangerous if it continues to be content, losing the chance to keep leading.
  • Howard Ressel wrote on November 30, 2009, 10:57:

    I found this article very well written and interesting. One of your points was how we don't consider the undersides of our bridges when we design them. In most cases this is very true but a recent project I worked on did quite the opposite. The project reconstructed a steel multi-girder bridge built in the 50's with a new signature arch design for downtown Rochester, NY. We carried pedestrian walkways under the bridge and worked closely with an aesthetic committee to develop design details for under the structure, including sculpted structural elements (floor beams). I have personally received some very positive comments about the under side of our bridge. We even included under bridge lighting not only on the walkway but on the walls lighting the underside of the bridge. Conduits were powder coated to match the steel.
  • Jason Robitaille wrote on November 26, 2009, 21:16:

    people often utter frustration with our infrastructure and the level of commitment to its restoration. UNLIKE germany, though, the United States is deep in debt, with much of our resources going to keeping world order, so that the economies of Germany, et al, will not be disturbed and can continue to prosper.
  • Dan McNichol wrote on November 12, 2009, 15:20:

    Bob, Thanks for your excellent points in response to my "Brucken" column. I agree, I should have ordered the .5L bier. If for no other reason than putting on a good show for my impromptu German hosts. Also, I would not, as you pointed out, to be paying the $3 gas tax. But, I would if we could have bridges maintained and train systems run like the Germans. Regardless of my willingeness to pay "the going rate" in Germany, we here in the USA need to make serious investments in our roads, bridges transit systems that an 18 cent a gallon gas tax will never afford us. In the next few years China plans to invest $200 billion in their high-speed trains since 2006 and before the end of next year. Amtrak investment will be less than $10 billion over the same period - 95% less than the emerging Chinese. The disparity in infrastructure investment is so enormous I think I better order a full liter of bier. Dan
  • Bob Jessberger wrote on November 12, 2009, 10:58:

    I have visited germany 3 times, the last time we rented a car. I totally agree with your interpretation of the bus and rail systems - some are very nice. But you did NOT mention the funding - gas taxes well over $3.00/US Gal, and Germany has a population density over that of California. And trains are VERY hard to use to get "into the country", where the real Duechland is. I am also surprised you weren't ordering the 0.5l bier.


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